If you’re wanting to add some easy to grow berries to your garden, look no further! They’re smaller than regular strawberries, have a bushy habit, go great in containers or direct in the garden, don’t send off runners, and will produce for a few years with proper care.
The dainty berries add a novelty factor to the garden and are the perfect garden treat for little ones and adults! We’ll keep some in containers on the deck for easy toddler access but also have them planted out in the front yard garden raised garden beds. Since they don’t send out runners, they’re the perfect strawberry to add to an already packed garden bed. Plant them on the edges of raised garden beds and they’ll drape over the side and reveal the sweet and tiny berries.
Starting From Seed
When
You’ll want to start these indoors about three to four months before your average last spring frost. They can take up to 28 days to germinate and take another three months or so to start producing fruit.
For us in zone 7, this means starting them at some point in mid-late December or January. Of course if you miss this date, you can still start them later. The later started strawberries just won’t produce fruits as early in the season.
How
Start with a light and fluffy seed starting soil and press the seeds into the top of the soil. You can cover them with soil, but if you choose to cover them- don’t cover them with more than 1/8th of an inch of soil. They need light to germinate and they’ll germinate much quicker when pressed lightly into the soil as opposed to covering them.
Place under a grow light or in a sunny window. Mist the soil/seeds lightly two times a day until germination.
You don’t need a heat mat when starting alpine strawberries unless you’re starting them in a colder part of your house. A humidity dome can be used to help retain moisture but we’ve started them without a dome without issue.
Seedlings should emerge in about two weeks but don’t be discouraged if it takes up to a month. Keep misting the soil until you see seedlings emerge and then water the seedlings from below.
Once seeds have germinated, you’ll want to have a strong light source. We’ve had the strongest plants come from under our grow lights but a sunny windowsill or greenhouse lighting will work as well. If the plant starts getting leggy in the window, it may be time to invest in a grow light.
For general seed starting information, check out these articles: Indoor Seed Starting Set Up & Indoor Seed Starting- What You’ll Need
Potting Up/Separating
If you’ve over-sown your cells, you’ll want to separate and pot up as soon as you see true leaves form.
We like to start two to three seeds per six pack cell and separate/pot up into a four pack cell or into four inch containers. Whatever we have on hand or available at the moment is what we’ll pot up into.
No need to snip the extra seedlings in each cell- you can gently separate them from each other. They don’t mind being handled but be careful and treat them to a little liquid kelp fertilizer when you pot them up. This will help reduce transplant shock and give them a little bit of nutrition.
If you’ve sown one seed per six pack cell, you can pot up to a four inch container when you have three sets of true leaves.
Once you see roots coming through the bottom of a four inch container or starting to show on the top of the soil, it’s time to pot up again! They can be moved from a four inch container and transplanted into their permanent home in containers or in the garden.
Planting
Plant directly in the garden after your average last spring frost date. They’ll tolerate frosts and survive over winter but tender young plants should be kept inside until after average last spring frost before going out.
If you’re planting them in containers, you can put them outside before your average last spring frost date and bring them inside on chilly nights and if a frost is expected.
Sunlight Requirements
Alpine strawberries need at least six hours of sun to produce lots of yummy berries. They’ll appreciate some light afternoon shade if you’re growing them in a hotter area.
Companions
Since alpine strawberries will last in the garden for a few years, you’ll want to plan companions and your garden beds accordingly.
Alpine strawberries can be planted in an herb garden with mint, thyme, oregano, tarragon, and many others!
They can also be used in one of my favorite planting combinations- asparagus and strawberries. Alpine strawberries don’t send out runners so you’ll need to replant the bed every few years with alpine strawberries.
Other companions include- marigold, lettuce, peas, and beans. If you decide to plant them near pole beans, you might want to strategically place the strawberries in the pole bean’s shade during the hottest part of summer. Pole beans and peas can offer the alpine strawberries some much needed relief from the hot summer sun, especially if your garden bed is in full sun all day long.
Harvesting
The more you pick, they more they produce! Pick when they’re about 1 inch in size and give slightly when you touch/pinch them. Check the back of your seed packet for specific information on when to harvest each variety. Some are ripe when red and others are ripe when white.
Other Maintenance Items
Seedlings will benefit from a fertilizer about every 2-3 weeks.
Alpine strawberries are meant to fruit in their first year so you don’t have to clip the blossoms when they first start. Enjoy the fruits of your labor!
Slugs, snails, and pill bugs love strawberries. If you know they’re an issue in the garden, try setting out beer traps or hand picking slugs at night. Trap crops like nasturtiums can be planted nearby as well.
Happy growing!
Bridget
